The Vaporanza or, some day.
Last weekend I found myself with five days free during the mayhem that is FIBArk here in Salida. Yup, a multi-day mountain-bike adventure was in order. I decided to ride a loop that included much of the VaporTrail125 race course, while also exploring somewhere new. All in all, I rode 146 miles and climbed over 16,500′ over three days and two nights on a loop I’m calling The Vaporanza.
Friday morning at 6:35,Isabelle and I were on the road, steadily climbing towards the Colorado Trail at Blanks Cabin. Within moments, I came across a large group of volunteers working on the Trail. A couple minutes later, I crossed paths with a group of about twenty college aged kids. Both groups were super friendly, letting me and my loaded bike pass with smiles and wishes of good luck. Near the end of this tough piece of trail, I crossed paths with another group of high-school aged Boy Scouts and their two leaders. Though I didn’t see any other cyclists, I smiled knowing I shared the trail with so many others.
At the Chalk Creek rail-trail, my friend Phillip joined in the fun. Arriving about an hour before I did, he surprised me with a beer stashed in the creek about 20mins down trail. What a treat, thanks Philip! Through the town of Alpine, up Hancock Rd., along the Alpine Tunnel Trail we rode under a mix of sun and cloud, always climbing, enjoying the camaraderie of exploring life on the bike.
At the turn that would take me up and over the Continental Divide Trail, Philip turned around and headed home. It was there that I knew I was truly alone in the wilderness. Negotiating my way up, through and around the remaining snow drifts, I descended to the restored Alpine Tunnel Station.
After finding water, making camp and filling my ravenous stomach, I sat and watched the setting sun illuminate the mountains in a slowly shifting wave of colour till dark fell. Birds whistled, marmots chirped and the wind lightly blew. Alone at 11,500′, it could not have been more peaceful.
Saturday morning I was up and rolling by 7:35am. Passed the narrow, blown-out section of the beautifully crafted Palisades retaining wall; nervously over the rock-slide obscured road towards Tomichi Pass; pushing my loaded bike for 55minutes to the summit of Canyon Creek Trail(12,600′), I felt truly alone in the back-country.
Having climbed Tomichi Pass, Canyon Creek and Old Monarch Pass Rds, I was feeling pretty fried by the time I reached Monarch Pass. As I devoured a bowl of chilli and a cup of coffee, plump tourists consumed massive bowls of ice-cream. It felt like we were from different worlds; I’m sure I looked like I was from another planet.
Back on the bike, I rode the Monarch Crest Trail, one of my all-time favourites. Leap-frogging with four fast looking folks, I eventually left them behind. Climbing Silver Creek Trail, I passed another group dealing with a flat. Out of the back-country, I was again among my kin.
As the sun began to set, I made camp near Silver Creek. Alone under the stars I listened to the creek gurgle as I fell soundly asleep.
Sunday morning I was again on the bike by 7:30. Down Silver Creek for a few miles, I turned off the VaporTrail route and on to Otto Mears Toll Rd. A rough 4×4 road, it would climb and climb before descending the other side along Squirrel Creek towards the old mining town of Bonanza. Seeing only one ATV the whole time, I knew I was alone again, among the trees and mountains. Bliss.
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As I rolled into Bonanza, the wind picked up and the rain began to fall. Hiding under a porch, I changed clothes for the weather and kept on going. The cold, hard rain abused me for about 30mins. I longed for the gloves I’d left behind at the Alpine Tunnel Station the day before. Somewhere along the 14miles of slightly descending dirt road, the rain stopped and I warmed up. As the rain returned, I pulled into the Villa Grove Cafe.
Friendly faces and hot coffee greeted me. As I ate a full breakfast, the rain seemed to abate. ‘Only 27miles and one mountain pass till I’ll be back in Salida’ I thought to myself.
The rain, however, resumed about a mile from the summit of Poncha Pass. Riding slowly along the highway in the rain, against the wind, uphill, tired from the effort of three days hard riding, I could not have felt more alone. A couple miles outside of town, the rain stopped and the roads dried.
After three days, 146miles/235kms and 5051m/16,571′ climbing, I was home, exhausted and elated.
Over those three days I indulged my need to be alone in the wilderness, the majesty of the mountains bringing me peace. I spent hour after hour immersed in my thoughts, surrounded by solitude. Yet, every time I found myself among the company of others, I smiled at the warmth of camaraderie.
It makes me think, as I have on similar occasions, that perhaps I would enjoy the warmth of companionship during these grand adventures. While I do enjoy the solitary life I live, I think I would prefer someone special to share it with, to look upon this world through the eyes of another.
Some day.
For now, I’ll just keep turning those pedals, one at a time…
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