Three Days in Durango; Day 2, Molas Pass to Hermosa Creek via Colorado Trail

Monday morning we were up early, fed, packed and driving to the trailhead in time for an 8:40am start. Our plan was to ride the Colorado Trail west to Hermosa Creek.  There, we’d decide for either more climbing or the long descent back to camp.  In either case, it would be a long day on the bike with lots of riding well above 10.000′.

Knowing that the 485mile, self-sufficient, unsupported, multi-day, bike-packing race The Colorado Trail Race started Sunday morning, we were excited to see the racers and hopefully, our friend Dominic Lauzier somewhere on the trail.  Arriving at the Little Molas Lake parking lot, we came across a lady who’s husband, Jesse Jakomait, had come through at 3:45am and was currently in first place[he’d finish 2nd, again]  Sunday night there was over 2″ of hail high in those mountains, plus rain and cold temperatures.  It was demoralizing for most, crushing for a few.

As is often the case here Colorado, the climbing began right away, but it was glorious.  Soon enough we were above the tree-line with vast fields of grass and wild flowers surrounding us, our trail just a little wiggly stripe of brown across the landscape.  Every 10-15mins we’d cross paths with CTR racers, wishing them well and offering all the encouragement we could.

The single-track was perfect, silky smooth and fast.  The skies were a deep blue with just a few clouds.  And the views, wow, the views!  People call this section of the Colorado Trail the very best, the most beautiful.  Even just a couple hours into our ride, I had to agree.

At one point, Reilly and I rounded a corner on that fast single-track and spotted two bike-packers sitting at the side of the trail.  Dominic!  He looked good but certainly lamented the affects of camping near 12,000′ while the rain and hail pounded.  The other fella was Ethan.  He wasn’t racing, rather, he was about two days away from completing a 45 day solo bike-packing trip all over Colorado.  Such a friendly guy, we all chatted and laughed for a good 15 mins.  It really was a special little moment, high in the hills, hanging out with friends old and new.  Wishing each other well, we parted ways and continued on…up and up.

Fortunately, what goes up and up gets to go down and down!  Arriving at Celebration Lake we had the option for more climbing and an extra 2 hours of riding or begin the long descent back to camp.  With threatening clouds beginning to form, the decision to start descending was unanimous.

For the next couple of hours we rode next to Hermosa Creek losing elevation the whole time.  The trails were fast and flowing as well as tough and technical.  There were several really tough climbs, many creek crossing and endless wild-flowers.  There were also many many very fast sections where we tore along in the big ring, yelling and laughing the whole time.  At one point, Reilly stopped to negotiate a rocky creek-crossing.  Looking to the source of that water, we gazed upon waterfall above waterfall above waterfall deep in the jagged rocks.  It was spectacular!  The four of us were compelled to stop and hang out for 15mins, stupefied by the majestic beauty all ’round us.  You know, it just doesn’t get much better than this.

Eventually, after more than seven hours of riding, 5,000′ of climbing and nearly 8,000′ of descending, we arrived back at camp.  We got changed, packed the bikes, the dogs and gear to drive back to where we’d started the day, at Little Molas Lake.  As we drove, we wondered if we might not see Dominic as he rolled through that parking lot.  Well, wouldn’t you know it, as we pull in, who should we see sprawled out around Reilly’s van, but Dominic!

We hung out for a while, he telling us of his adventures so far.  Hunger getting the best of us all, Taf and Dominic went to town for dinner while Reilly, Kimberly and I ate at camp.  Before doing so, however, we waded into that crystal-clear yet frigid alpine lake.  Looking about, it occurred to me; here we are, at over 10,000′, having ridden our bikes for over seven hours, standing ankle deep in pristine water.  Wading simply would not do!  Within moments, I’d stripped off all my clothes and jumped into that chilly water.  It was glorious, revitalizing, bloody cold!  Reilly and Kimberly looked at me, looked at each other, shrugged their shoulders and followed my lead.  Skinny-dipping at 10,000′, yup, life is pretty good.

Soon after dinner, Kimberly’s friend Zane joined us to camp for the night.  Regrettably, we didn’t make for very good company; we were all very tired and in bed rather early, despite the full moon that bathed us in light.  Yup, just another day in paradise.