Bike-packing Peru: Beyond Salinas and Pati

Monday morning we woke to an endless procession of dump-trucks making their way from Arequipa to the Laguna Salidas salt flats. Passing by on the bikes, it was interesting to notice the micro/individual salt mining operations–a taxi cab, a motorbike, rakes, shovels and buckets–versus the macro/industrial mining operations with their heavy machinery. Like so often here in Peru, the traditional and the modern ways of life exist side-by-side.

The first 15kms/9milesof riding was across skull-rattling wash-board. Fortunately, the tailwinds made the riding tolerable. The next stretch to Pati–tiny town, maybe a dozen houses–was across rolling hills. In Pati we tried to get some provisions but the door to the tienda was locked, so we just kept on pedaling.

The next section of road took us up and up and up(noticing a theme here in the Andes?) what looked like a giant mesa. As we climbed, huge great twisting columns of sand soared 15-20 stories into the air below us. Reaching the top, we had again ridden to over 15,000′! But the vast great plateau we’d found ourselves upon was like no other landscape we’d yet encountered.
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The land was immense and flat, covered in white sand and very little else. It was clear by the lack of roadside garbage that this road was seldom traveled. The road itself was quite smooth(for dirt) and with a strong afternoon easterly tailwind, we were pushed along as though we had sails. It was magnificent.

As the day got late, the winds continued to pick-up while our water supply dwindled. Spotting a lake off to our right we walked across the sands and made camp. And then, just before the sun set, some thing remarkable occurred; a small group of pink flamingos flew in to dine on the lake’s bounty. With pink birds before me and pink skies around me, I soon fell soundly asleep.